Grading
Grading is the act of developing different sizes of a shoe. This is done by generating a table that contains all the size information of every number, relative to the sample size, which is typically the size the shoe is built on. Sizes, sample sizes, and measurements can vary on many levels: company, brand, country.
The following chapter illustrates how to create a grading table, develop sizes and groups, and perform measurements on the model.
Note
Note about grading structure and functionality
As already noted, grading is the process of generating the new measures for all the sizes of a shoe model. In Jevero, all functionalities rely on baselines to establish subsequent rules and modifications.
For this reason, it is crucial to understand that the grading rules and the dependencies must be applied to baselines, and it is important to pay attention to how they are managed through the grading.
Creating a Grading Table
J_GenerateGradeTable
Once the model patterns are completed, it is time to move to the grading. Before doing anything, it is crucial to create a grading table.
The first button on the left creates a grading table for the model. Clicking it prompts the user with a form to configure the grading table data. Through this form, you can:
- Load and save a preset, such as UK or French sizes;
- Set the sample size and the increment of each size (1, 0.5, .... );
- Set the range of the max and min size;
- Choose the length and the width of the shoe, through manual input or by clicking the
button and manually selecting the length on the shoe model, both for the upper and the sole.
Once confirmed, the panel will be filled with the grading table, and the lines will be assigned to new grading centers.
In the grading table we will see
- Different colors for the sizes
- The sample size row is highlighted
- All the different measurements of the size for upper and sole
- A column for size codes
It is possible to perform changes directly to the measurements on the table, and these changes will be applied to the respective sizes.
By right-clicking the leftmost column, it opens a menu with additional actions:
- Add size before/after one number
- Delete size
- Set one number as sample size: this will change the model and all the measurements on the working area to a new, recalculated size to fit the new sample.
- Set as sample size without grading: redefines the selected size as the sample size without modifying any geometry in the workspace.
Grading centers
What is a grading center?
A grading center is a point entity that controls the grading and the position of one or more lines across the model.
When you create a grading table, GC_Upper and GC_Sole are two grading centers automatically created by default.
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_J_GradeCenterCreate |
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This command allows you to create a grading center. Once selected, the following form is displayed.
Group: will assign the center and the lines it controls to a Group.
Set a grade like a margin.
This button allows you to assign curves to the grading center.
Change the master grading center.
The override allows the grading center to apply different measurements to specific lines. The table below it lets the user define individual overrides for each size.
The most commonly used function is Assign curves to grading center, which dictates how lines position and grade.
Create a group
Groups are sets of lines grouped together and assigned to various size ranges to apply the same line or pattern to multiple sizes. A common example is a logo: logos are usually graded in groups of three or more sizes to control production costs and simplify manufacturing. For example, you can assign a single logo size to sizes 42 through 45 so that the same logo is shared across those sizes.
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_J_GradeGroupCreate |
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J_GradeGroupDelete |
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_J_GradeGroupAssign |
Starting the _J_GradeGroupCreate command prompts you to enter a group name.
Once the group is created, a new column appears in the pattern grading panel showing the size mapping. Currently, the group is set to the sample size. For a logo, this can be changed to three distinct size groups:
- Sizes 36 through 40 will all follow size 38
- Sizes 41 to 44 will follow the sample size
- Sizes 45 through 48 will follow size 46
With this method, it is possible to create a logo with only three size variations across 13 graded sizes.
Next, it will be necessary to add the lines that are needed for the group.
Steps:
Open the part with the baselines needed for the grouping:
Click the 
button to open the grouping panel:
Select curves or grading centers using the Assign section of the panel:
When the 
function is selected, it will show the result as decided.
In the picture, the graded tongue has 13 variations, while the logo shows only three due to overlapping groups.
Check and measure
Main tools:
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_J_ShowGradeCurve |
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_J_UnpinGradedCurves |
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_J_ManageGradeCenters |
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_J_GradeCenterStack |
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_J_MeasureAcrossGrade |
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_J_AnchorInspect |
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_J_ShowGradeCurve |
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This command opens the graded curves menu, allowing you to view all graded pattern sizes with various display options:
- Show/hide generating lines
- Show/hide base curves
- Highlight sample size
hide sample size
measure distances
After selecting the desired parts/sizes, to display them on the viewport, click the Pin button.
To hide all graded curves after checking, click:
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_J_UnpinGradedCurves |
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_J_ManageGradeCenters |
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This command displays a menu listing all grading centers and their assigned lines.
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_J_AnchorInspect |
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Similarly, the Anchor Inspect tool shows the curves connected to a specific center.
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_J_GradeCenterStack |
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Once graded curves are pinned, you can stack them on a single point to compare measurements. Selecting this command displays black dots over the model; clicking a dot aligns all sizes to that point.
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_J_MeasureAcrossGrade |
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With stacking active, use the Measure Across Grade function to verify distances between identical points across different sizes.
Exporting
Exporting is a fundamental tool in Jevero, as it allows pattern engineers to communicate with various cutting tables through the export of proprietary files and customizable DXF configurations.
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_J_ExportData |
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On the JPatternDesign toolbar, this tool allows you to export files for costing or cutting machines. First, select a file name and extension.
Jevero supports native exports for major cutting machine brands, as well as highly customizable DXF export options for other systems.
- Under the options, you can choose to export print boxes and size codes.
- You can lay out patterns and sizes in the DXF file, which helps costing and cutting software locate parts more quickly.
- It is possible to select single parts and sizes
- The Configuration section at the top allows users to select, save, and store export profiles for specific uses.
- The default profile, AAMA Crispin, is one of the most widely supported DXF configurations for cutting tables.
- By clicking on the gear
icon, there are extra features that are important for specific dxf settings.
On these additional settings, it is possible to:
- Divide DXF parts by layer, allowing software like Adobe Illustrator to open the file with separate layers.
- Use curves or polylines as the main export. Some cutting tables do not handle curves, so it is important to convert them into short polyline segments.
- Use AAMA as export
- Create separate files for each size.
- Export baselines
- Export markers or convert them to standard lines.
- Export grain line
- Dictate color of entities, as some cutting tables need specific colors in order to read the entities exported by Jevero.