Grading

Grading is the act of developing the different sizes of a shoe. This is done by generating a table which contains all the size information of every number, compared to the sample size, which is usually the size the shoe is built on. Sizes, sample sizes and measurements can vary on many levels: company, brand, country.

The following chapter illustrates how to create a grading table and how to develop sizes, groups and how to perform measurements on the model.

Creating a Grading Table

J_GenerateGradeTable

Once the model patterns are competed, it is time to move to the grading. Before doing anything, it is crucial to create a grading table.

The first button to the left is to create a grading table on the model, once it is clicked, the user is prompted with this form:The form is to set all the data for the creation of a gradin table. Through this form it is possible to:

• Load and save a preset, which are the sizes from UK and French;
• Set the sample size and the increment of each size (1, 0.5, .... );
• Set the range of the max and min size;
• Choose the length and the width of the shoe, through manual input or by clicking on the button and selecting manually the length on the shoe model, both for the upper and the sole.

Once confirmed, the panel will be filled with the grading table and the lines will be assigned to a new grading center.

In the grading table we will see

• Different colors for the sizes
• The sample size row is highlighted
• All the different measurements of the size for upper and sole
• A column for size codes

It is possible to perform changes directly to the measurements on the table and these will be applied to the relative size.

By right clicking on the left white column, it is possible to perform more actions

• Add size before/after one number
• Delete size
• Set one number as sample size: this will change the model and all the measurements on the working area to a new, reaclculated size that fits the new sample
• Set as sample size without grading: will do the opposite, as it will make the new number chosen as sample size the new one, without changing the measurement on the working area.

Grading centers

What is a grading center?

A grading center is a point entity that controls the grading and the position of one or more lines across the model.

Once you create a grading table, GC_Upper and GC_Sole are two grading centers which are automatically created.

	_J_GradeCenterCreate

With this command it will be possible to create a grading center. Once selected, this form will be prompted.

Group: will assign the center and the lines it controls to a Group.

Set a grade like a margin

With this button it is possible to assign curves to the grading center

Change master grading center

The override will let the grading center apply diffetent measurements to some particular lines. The table under it, will let the user apply single overrides for each size.

Commonly, the most use function is the Assign curves to grading center, through which it is possible to dictate the various positions and grading information.

Create a group

Groups are sets of lines, put together and assigned to various groups of sizes, in order to have the same line, or pattern, applied to different graded sizes. The most common examples are logos. A logo is usually graded in groups of 3 or more sizes, in order to contain cost and simplify the work. Through grouping, it is possible to assign one logo to a group of sizes, for example 42 to 45, so that the same logo can be used through this group of sizes.

	_J_GradeGroupCreate
	J_GradeGroupDelete
	_J_GradeGroupAssign

Once the _J_GradeGroupCreate command is started, it will prompt the group name selection

Once the group is created, there will be a new column on the pattern grading panel, which will indicate the size correspondent to every other size. Right not, the group is set to sample size. For a potential logo, it will changed to 3 different size groups

• Size 36 through 40 will all follow size 38 dimensions
• size 41 to 44 will follow sample size dimensions
• size 45 through 48 will follow 46 dimensions

With this method, it is possible to create a logo that will have only 3 different size variations through all the 13 different sizes.

Next, it will be necessary to add the lines that are needed for the group.

Steps:

Open the part with the baselines needed for the grouping:

Select button and open the grouping panel:

Select curves or grading centers with the Assign section of the panel:

When the function is selected, it will show the result as decided.

In the picture, the graded tongue has 13 developments while the logo will show 3 as the 3 groups are overlapping.

Check and measure

Main tools:

	_J_ShowGradeCurve
	_J_UnpinGradedCurves
	_J_ManageGradeCenters
	_J_GradeCenterStack
	_J_MeasureAcrossGrade
	_J_AnchorInspect

	_J_ShowGradeCurve

This command will prompt the graded curves menu where it will be possible to see all the different pattern graded sizes with various options for visualisation.

• Show/hide generating lines
• Show/hide base curves
• Highlight sample size
• hide sample size
• measure distances

After the selection of useful parts/sizes, to see it on the viewport, it will be necessary to click on “pin” to see the graded curves.

Once done with checking, to hide all the graded curves it will be necessary to click on:

	_J_UnpinGradedCurves

	_J_ManageGradeCenters

This program will let the user see a menu with all grading centers and the lines assigned to those centers.

	_J_AnchorInspect

A similar tool is anchor inspect, which will show the curves connected to a certain center

	_J_GradeCenterStack

Once graded curves are pinner, it is possible to stack curves on a single point in order to make better measurements. Once the command is selected, it will prompt black dots over the model, that once clicked will concentrate all the lines.

	_J_MeasureAcrossGrade

Once Stacking used, the measure across grade function could be used in order to better check distances on the same points across different sizes.

Exporting

Exporting is a fundamental tool in Jevero as it enables the patter engineer to communicate with a vast number of cutting tables through the export of proprietary files and various configurations of .dxf file format.

	_J_ExportData

On the JPatterDesign toolbar, this tool will let the user export a file to send to the cutting machine or to costing. The first thing will be the name selection and the extension.

All the file exports are native for some cutting machines brands that cover a lot of what is on the market, and then for the others there are many settings of DXF.

• On the options, it is possible to decide to export printboxes and size codes
• It is possible to lay the patterns and the sizes out on the dxf, which can be useful for some costing and cutting table programs to find the parts more quickly.
• It is possible to select single parts and sizes
• The top section, configuration, will let the user select different configurations that can be saved and stored for specific uses.
• The one that is on top, AAMA Crispin, is one of the most common dxf configurations among cutting tables and it comes as default.
• By clicking on the gearicon, there are extra features that are important for specific dxf settings.

On these additional settings, it is possible to:

• divide parts in DXF by layer, so it will be possible to see layers for example in programs like illustrator divided in different layers.
• Use curves or polylines as the main export. Some cutting tables do not handle curves, so it is important to divide them in small segments.
• Use AAMA as export
• Create a different file for sizes.
• Export baselines
• Export markers, or export them as normal line
• Export grain line
• Dictate color of entities, as some cutting tables need specific colors in order to read the entities exported by Jevero.